Ji Gong gives blessing

Chingay Parade of Sabah

Have you ever experienced the vibrant Chingay Parade in Donggongon Town, Sabah, Malaysia? It was truly a festival worth attending for anyone who appreciates cultural and religious traditions.

Chingay Parade (游神 in Chinese) is an annual street celebration held in Malaysia and Singapore, often as part of Chinese New Year festivities or to commemorate the birthdays of Chinese deities. It frequently features a procession of the Goddess of Mercy (Guanyin) or other revered figures. I attended the Chingay Parade organised by Fook Tet Kung Temple (兵南邦福德宫) on 19 February 2023 to celebrate the birthday of Tua Pek Kong (大伯公 / 福德正神 / 土地公), one of the most widely worshipped deities in Sabah.

About 10 Taoist and Buddhist temples from Kota Kinabalu, Penampang, Tuaran, Kinarut, and Putatan participated in the procession, including Fook Tet Kung Temple, Sabah Wei Ling Gong, Persatuan Long Qi Shi Tuaran, Peak Nam Toong, Nam Tien Kong, Persatuan Penganut Dewa Yin Loh, Putatan Tai Pak Kung Mission, Sabah Wei Wu Dragon Unicorn & Lion Dance Association, and Tien Nam Shi Temple. (Their names in Chinese: 兵南邦福德宫, 威灵宫, 斗亚兰拿督公坛, 亚庇碧南堂, 南天宫, 关帝坛, 阴暹殿, 必打丹伯公庙, 关帝阴府殿, 石牛毛关帝庙, 仙法师古庙, 京那律镇南寺).

You can watch this 7-minute video for some interesting moments in this Chingay parade.

Before the parade began, participating teams gathered at the temple one by one in the afternoon, where the host (Fook Tet Kung Temple) greeted them at the gate. In addition to deity altars, dragon, unicorn, and lion dance troupes were present, bowing and greeting one another. Firecrackers were set off to ward off evil and welcome guests. While most participants were Chinese, I noticed a significant number of local natives as well.

The term “Chingay” originates from Hokkien, combining chin-gē (真藝), meaning “true art,” and chng-gē (妝藝), meaning “art of costume.” This tradition was introduced to Malaysia and Singapore by Chinese migrants from Southern China in the early 1800s. Today, Chingay has become a living heritage, even making a historic debut at Malaysia’s 2024 National Day Parade.

As more teams arrived, the temple became noisier and more lively, with participating temples and lion dance groups beating their bells, drums, gongs, and cymbals. Families with children joined in, making the event a communal celebration. The loud sounds also drew a crowd to the temple, and many devotees took advantage of the occasion to pray for wealth and prosperity.

Family-Friendly Adventures

Each temple represents different deities, carried on palanquins or sedan chairs by their followers. Some popular deities include Tua Pek Kong, Guang Ze Zun Wang (广泽尊王), Guan Yin (观音), Guan Di (关帝), Ji Gong (济公), the Monkey King (齐天大圣), Datuk Gong (拿督公), the Third Prince / Nezha (哪吒三太子), Fa Zhu Gong (法主公), and the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝).

The carriers of the sedan chairs swung them violently left and right, moving back and forth in an uncontrolled manner, as if an unseen force was at play. When I asked them about this, they explained that it was a sign of the deities’ excitement. Some carriers even appeared to enter a trance, although others may have done it to enhance the parade’s atmosphere.

Donggongon is the main town in the Penampang district, part of Greater Kota Kinabalu, the capital city of Sabah. The name Donggongon originates from the Kadazan word tundo’ongon, which means “shelter” or “resting area,” referring to its historical role as a stopover for people from the interior journeying to trade at the tamu market. Chinese traders may have started trading there as early as 800 years ago. Many locals claim that most Kadazan people of Penampang have Chinese ancestry due to the long history of intermarriage between the two communities.

The three-hour parade began and ended at Fook Tet Kung Temple, running from 4:30 PM to 7:30 PM. The route covered key landmarks in Donggongon Town, including the Tamu Ground, the statue of Datuk Peter Mojuntin, CKS Supermarket, Megalong Shopping Mall (the longest shopping mall in Sabah), Buhavan Square, Sabah Credit Corporation, the library, and most shoplots in the town centre.

Followers carried deity altars on palanquins and paraded through the streets, forming a procession several hundred metres long. Adding to the spectacle, stilt walkers and performances by lion, dragon, and unicorn dance troupes filled the streets with rhythmic drumbeats, cymbals, and gongs, creating an electrifying atmosphere.

Locals seemed accustomed to the annual parade and enjoyed the lively ambiance, smiling and watching as the procession passed by. Many spectators joined the parade for fun and shared the moments on social media. Children were particularly delighted, as participants handed out candies.

Some followers dress as deities, almost like they are cosplaying. In reality, they serve as spirit mediums, speaking and acting on behalf of the deities. Each deity has its own personality and style. Ji Gong (or the Mad Monk) is the easiest to recognise due to his signature look: a ragged robe, slanted hat, and tattered fan.

Shop owners seeking blessings from the deities placed offerings such as fruits, beer, cooked meat, joss paper, and burning incense on tables outside their businesses. As the parade passed, the palanquins and dancers stopped to bestow blessings upon them. Interestingly, participants were not limited to the Chinese community—people from various ethnic backgrounds joined in, showcasing how modern Chingay has evolved into a multicultural celebration that captivates audiences with its energy and diversity.

The parade covered approximately 4 km. As night fell, some palanquins lit up with LED lights, creating a dazzling display. Despite the long walk, participants persevered until the end, with the event concluding with a lion and dragon dance performance from 8:00 PM to 9:30 PM.

Singapore and Malaysia will jointly submit a nomination in March 2025 for the Chingay Parade to be inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, ensuring this dynamic tradition is preserved for future generations. While Chingay Parades in Johor, Penang, and Labuan are said to be grander in scale, Sabah’s Chingay, though smaller, remains an impressive and eye-opening experience for spectators.

You can follow the Facebook page of Fook Tet Kung Temple (兵南邦福德宫) for updates on this event. I was also told that the Chingay Parade for the birthday of Guang Ze Zun Wang is quite grand and features participants from other countries. For updates on this parade, follow Peak Nam Toong (亚庇碧南堂).

Photos taken in Donggongon, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

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